Knitting Stitch Guide
Every basic knitting stitch and shaping technique, with its abbreviation and exactly how to work it — the reference this site's calculators assume you already have.
Quick reference
| Stitch/technique | Abbr. | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Knit | k | The base stitch; smooth "V" on the right side |
| Purl | p | The base stitch; bumpy horizontal ridge on the right side |
| Yarn over | yo | Increase; leaves a small eyelet hole |
| Knit 2 together | k2tog | Right-leaning decrease |
| Slip slip knit | ssk | Left-leaning decrease (mirrors k2tog) |
| Knit front and back | kfb | Increase; leaves a small bump |
| Make one | M1 | Increase; nearly invisible |
Knit (k)
1. Insert the right needle into the front of the first stitch on the left needle, going left to right.
2. Wrap the working yarn counterclockwise around the right needle.
3. Pull that wrap through the stitch, forming a new loop on the right needle.
4. Slide the old stitch off the left needle.
Knit stitches worked on every row produce garter stitch; knit stitches on the right side alternated with purl on the wrong side produce stockinette, the smooth "V"-patterned fabric most sweaters use.
Purl (p)
1. With the yarn held in front of your work, insert the right needle into the front of the first stitch, going right to left (the opposite direction from knit).
2. Wrap the working yarn counterclockwise around the right needle.
3. Pull that wrap back through the stitch.
4. Slide the old stitch off the left needle.
A purl stitch is a knit stitch worked from the other side — the bump you see on the right side of a purl stitch is the same loop that looks like a smooth "V" from the other side of the fabric.
Yarn Over (yo)
Wrap the working yarn over the right needle before working the next stitch, rather than into an existing stitch. That wrap becomes a brand new stitch on the next row, increasing your stitch count by one and leaving a visible hole where the yarn didn't cross over any existing fabric — the building block of virtually all knitted lace.
Knit 2 Together (k2tog)
Insert the right needle through 2 stitches at once (instead of 1), then knit them together as if they were a single stitch. The resulting stitch leans to the right, which is why patterns pair it with ssk on the opposite edge for a symmetrical decrease, like on either side of a raglan seam.
Slip Slip Knit (ssk)
1. Slip 2 stitches, one at a time, knitwise onto the right needle (without working them).
2. Insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches at once.
3. Knit them together.
The result is a decrease that leans left, mirroring k2tog exactly — the two are almost always used as a matched pair rather than interchangeably.
Knit Front and Back (kfb)
1. Knit into the front of the next stitch as normal, but don't slide the old stitch off the left needle yet.
2. Knit into the back loop of that same stitch.
3. Now slide the old stitch off.
One stitch becomes two, but the technique leaves a small horizontal bump at the base of the new stitch — fine for an edge that will be seamed or hidden, more noticeable in the middle of visible fabric.
Make One (M1)
1. Insert the left needle from front to back under the horizontal strand of yarn running between the stitch just worked and the next stitch.
2. Knit into the back of that lifted strand.
Because M1 is worked in the gap between two stitches rather than into an existing stitch, it doesn't use up a stitch of its own and leaves a much less visible increase than kfb — the usual choice when an increase needs to blend in rather than read as a design detail.
Stockinette, garter, and rib at a glance
These three fabrics are just combinations of the stitches above, repeated in different patterns: stockinette is knit every right-side row and purl every wrong-side row (or simply knit every round if you're working in the round), producing the smooth "V" fabric most sweaters and hats use. Garter is knit on every row regardless of side, producing a ridged, stretchy fabric that lies flat without curling — the reason so many beginner patterns (scarves especially) start there. Rib alternates knit and purl stitches within the same row, commonly k1p1 or k2p2, producing vertical columns that pull the fabric in on itself — the stretchy fabric used for cuffs, hems, and necklines that need to hug without a separate elastic.
Why stockinette curls and garter doesn't
Every stitch stores a small amount of directional tension, and in stockinette all of that tension runs the same way on every row, which is exactly why a stockinette swatch curls at the edges without blocking or a border. Garter and rib both alternate direction row by row or stitch by stitch, which cancels that tension out and is why both lie flat on their own — a useful fact when picking a border stitch for an otherwise curl-prone stockinette piece.
Getting from here to gauge
Knowing how to form these stitches and hitting a specific gauge with them are two different skills, and the gap between them is tension. Once you're comfortable with the stitches above, our Knitting Gauge Calculator and Yarn & Needle Converter pick up exactly where this page leaves off.