Garment Resizer

Don't forget ease

"Target finished measurement" should already include the ease you want — if you want a sweater to fit with 2 inches of positive ease over your 36in chest, enter 38, not 36. This tool gives you the stitch count for one flat measurement; for a full garment with waist shaping, sleeve tapering, etc., repeat the calculation at each key measurement point.

Why one gauge swatch isn't always enough

A single stitch-per-inch number works fine for a plain rectangle, but a fitted garment usually combines more than one stitch pattern — a ribbed hem, a main body in a textured stitch, maybe a lace panel down the sleeve — and each of those can have a meaningfully different gauge even at the identical hook and tension. Swatch in the actual stitch pattern for each section you're resizing rather than assuming your plain single-crochet gauge applies everywhere in the piece; a cabled or post-stitch panel in particular tends to pull in narrower than the surrounding fabric.

Design ease vs wearing ease

Not all positive ease is optional comfort — some of it is baked into the garment's intended silhouette. An oversized, drop-shoulder cardigan might be designed with 6-8 inches of ease over the bust as part of its look, while a fitted cardigan might only want 1-2 inches. Check whether the original pattern states a "finished bust measurement" or a "to fit bust measurement" before you decide how much ease to add on top of your own body measurement — those two numbers already differ by the designer's intended ease, and adding your own ease on top of a finished measurement double-counts it.

For garments with waist shaping worked in rows (not all-over stitch repeats), resize each shaping row's stitch count separately rather than scaling the whole piece by one ratio — the waist and bust don't necessarily need to scale by the same percentage if your own body proportions differ from the sample size the pattern was drafted for.