Increase Calculator
Tell it your starting count, target count, and how many rows you have — it tells you exactly how many stitches to add on every single row.
Why the amount per row isn't always the same
Whenever the total stitches to add don't divide evenly across your row count, some rows need one more added than others to land on target — there's no avoiding a little unevenness in the raw numbers, only in how well it's spread across the piece. This calculator distributes the "extra" rows as evenly as possible over the full range, which is the same spacing logic behind a pattern instruction like "increase every 3rd row 4 times, then every 4th row 3 times" — just shown as a direct row-by-row result instead of interval shorthand.
Increasing at more than one point
If you're increasing at both edges in the same row (typical for a symmetric taper, like widening from a cuff toward a sleeve cap), the number shown for that row is the combined total across every increase point — split it evenly (2 sts on a row means 1 at each of 2 edges; for gusset shaping with increases on both sides of a marked stitch, that's often 2 separate increases worked right next to each other).
Picking an increase that matches the look you want
In knitting, a make-one (M1L or M1R) lifts the bar between stitches and is nearly invisible, while a knit-front-and-back (kfb) is faster to work but leaves a small visible bump — for a visible edge like a sleeve seam, kfb's extra bump is easy to hide in the seam allowance, but for an increase that will show in the middle of a piece, M1 in the correct left- or right-leaning direction keeps the fabric looking clean. In crochet, working 2 stitches into the same stitch is the standard increase and reads fine almost anywhere; a yarn-over-based increase deliberately leaves a small eyelet, which is a design choice for lace rather than a shaping technique to reach for by default.