Decrease Calculator
Tell it your starting count, target count, and how many rows you have — it tells you exactly how many stitches to lose on every single row.
Why the amount per row isn't always the same
Whenever the total stitches to lose don't divide evenly across your row count, some rows need to shed one more stitch than others to land on the target exactly — there's no way around a little unevenness in the raw numbers, only in how well it's spread out. This calculator spreads the "extra" rows across the full range as evenly as it can, the same approach patterns use when they write something like "decrease every 2nd row 3 times, then every 3rd row 5 times" instead of a single clean interval — it's doing that same spacing math, just showing you the row-by-row result directly instead of the interval shorthand.
Decreasing at more than one point
If you're decreasing at both edges of a piece in the same row (common for tapering a sleeve or bodice symmetrically), the "stitches to decrease" this shows for that row is the total across all your decrease points combined — split it evenly between your points (2 sts on a row means 1 at each of 2 edges; 4 sts on a row could mean 1 at each of 4 raglan seam lines, or 2 at each of 2 edges, depending on your construction).
Picking a decrease that matches your fabric
In knitting, k2tog and ssk (or skp) produce mirror-image decreases that lean in opposite directions — using the wrong one at a given edge is a common reason a taper looks subtly asymmetric even when the stitch counts are exactly right. In crochet, a standard sc2tog or dc2tog decrease is fairly direction-neutral, but for amigurumi or anywhere the decrease will show clearly, an invisible decrease (working through front loops only) avoids the small bump a standard decrease leaves.